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 | | Customer Reviews: | | | Average Customer Review: Write an online review and share your thoughts with other customers.
WHERE HAVE ALL THE STURGEON GONE, LONG TIME PASSING Feb 17, 2010 From the time that the TV series, Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous, hit the small screens viewers were invited to indulge themselves in the "caviar dreams" of the wealthy. I suppose it was due in part to this reference that I have always been intrigued by this delicacy of delicacies.
Caviar, the book, is an enjoyable read that leads the reader through the very interesting history of caviar, the food, from its surprisingly humble origins in Russia to its New World presence and industry.
The book also tells the sad plight of the sturgeon, the huge fish from which the finest caviar in the world is harvested, and how this "living fossil" is now in danger of becoming extinct and that in order to sate the lust that the super rich have, not only for the taste of caviar but for its prestige as well.
Interestingly, I found that the sturgeon story has some similarities to the tragedy of the near extinction of the American Bison. Whereas in all too many cases the buffalo was slaughtered only for its tongue, the sturgeon is taken not so much for its meat which is consumed for food, but for its primary and, comparatively, small contribution in its eggs.
A truly fascinating story, read it with a big dish of beluga and crackers or, better yet, save the sturgeon and read it like I did with a coke and some pretzels. I couldn't have afforded even a small dish of beluga anyway.
THE HORSEMAN
0 of 1 found the following review helpful:
Losing a bit of what makes life worth living Dec 16, 2008 Fish roe comes from any fish and varies wildly in taste and texture. Caviar however is the lightly salted roe of sturgeon prepared from a freshly caught female. And it is fast disappearing.
Saffron (what a name for an epicurean!) starts off with a description of how sturgeon are caught today and how caviar is prepared. Because makers can pack it in vacuum sealed tin cans, the roe doesn't need to be salted as heavily as it did two hundred years ago to be turned into caviar. What began as a dish Russian peasants would eat with bread soon became a delicacy. Cossacks, free men who recognized the Tzar but refused to remain serfs, were given exclusive rights to produce and sell caviar in Astrakhan and the surroundings of the Volga delta where the river throws itself into the Caspian sea.
When the communists took over, caviar became a source of hard currency so they promptly took over the industry, guarding it as jealously as De Beers did the diamond trade. It worked up to a point, and poaching could never threaten the sturgeon under communist rule. However authoritarian regimes do not foster debates and when Stalin decided to dam the Volga he destroyed the sturgeon's spawning areas. The canals built to help the sturgeon swim around the dams didn't work and the population began declining.
When the communist system fell apart, free wheeling capitalism was in and caviar was big money. Poaching was rampant involving private homes and shady Russian mafia type characters. (Saffron's description of the illicit international caviar trade was particularly interesting to me because of the last book I reviewed, "Illicit" by Moses Naim, which is all about how world trade is being almost hijacked by crooks and thugs.)
Caviar prices fell, catches increased, but the population was not renewing itself and the Caspian population decline turned into a collapse. The best caviar no longer comes from Russia, but from Iran.
The sturgeon as a group of species is safe, but the species living in the Caspian, such as the Beluga, are fast disappearing. They cannot survive without help. Caviar is a luxury and we can certainly live without it, but luxuries give our life meaning and purpose. Losing caviar would be losing one of those little things that makes life worthwhile.
Vincent Poirier, Tokyo
0 of 1 found the following review helpful:
Absolutely fantastic! Aug 07, 2006 I know nothing about caviar or sturgeon, but subject matter aside, this is one of the most well-written boutique histories I've ever read (and I've read many of them). Saffron's writing is fantastically engaging. This is no dry academic text; I felt as though I were reading a book of fiction in terms of its readability and sense of adventure. I was constantly laughing or smiling or worrying along with the author. Let's hope Saffron continues to write boutique histories!
2 of 3 found the following review helpful:
Hate caviar and still gave it five stars Oct 25, 2004 I have been served red, black and gray caviar at "Slava", possibly the best restaurant in Moscow...and I STILL didn't like it. (Our Russian friends gladly accepted our serving like it was gold.)
This is a great, little story about caviar and the history of this delicacy and the great fish that supplies it. The sturgeon, of which there are several varieties, is an ancient animal, predating the dinosaurs. It has remained essentially unchanged because there was no reason for evolutionary modifications. It can grow to incredible sizes and the eggs sacs are astounding.
In Russia, though, the sturgeon nears extinction as the race to capture as much caviar as possible continues. In that country, it is an art - the capture, gutting, creating, selling of this product. THe author gives us first-hand experiences as we fish with the natives, suffer their increasingly declining catches and commiserate in their gloom. Then there are history lessons on both biological and cultural paths. The ending is not upbeat.. For the fish to regenerate we must rethink our ideas about what constitutes a delicacy. One problem is the low price of caviar - so low it no longer constitutes a "delicacy". A good and timely book.
2 of 2 found the following review helpful:
A Luxuriously Gooey Read Jun 06, 2004 I had the mixed fortune to read this book in a Puerto Rican resort, about a million miles away from where caviar is bought or sold, but Saffron's vivid description of this delicacy more than compensated for its physical absence. Caviar is one of those few foods which changes form when put in the mouth - the fish eggs pop like bubbles as soon as they're on the tongue - and in this sense it is not unlike chocolate (which melts in the mouth) for its sensual appeal. Caviar goes back to the Black sea, wherein beluga has been farmed for thousands of years (Herodotus gets quoted along the way). Sadly, the actual stocks of Russian caviar are so badly depleted that they are close to extermination; for decent, ethical fish eggs one has to go to the American farm-raised sturgeon or, as a further compromise, for lesser stuff such as salmon eggs. There are interesting chapters on the cultural emergence of caviar as a delicacy; sadder ones on the sudden eruption of strip-farming in the early 1990s. Best enjoyed with a glass or two of champagne.
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